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Painting 3D Prints


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  • Vectorworks, Inc Employee

Often a spray primer first works well, most paint designed for models (plastic or pewter) seems to do fine. If it has any ridging which is more common in the FDM plastic method than with resin, I generally use a little spackle first, then sand, prime and paint.

A nice clear coat to finish it off usually gives it a nice look. I'll try to find some images of surfaces after painting.

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2 hours ago, barkest said:

The prints I make are resin based. Has anyone tried painting this type of print?

I have been told water based but have not yet tried it.



Does this mean it will be dissolved by solvents ?

In studies, when building "real" models from Styrofoam, Styropor and similar,
there where special spray paints that don't destroy these materials in our
model building shops ....

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All water based lacquers should be fine (like Acrylic lacquer ?)

Primer will help mostly but no guarantee if you use very aggressive paints with dissolvents.
There are also special spray paints for plastics.
(Something similar to this : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lacquer-Varnish-Water-Based-Styrofoam-Colourless/dp/B00J4N4BOK)


It depends, Carbon is also resin based.
And Carbon bicylcle frames normally withstand even 2c varnishes.

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  • 3 years later...

I have been ordering Stereolithography (ultraviolet laser resin) for years and have used (Duple-Color) high build auto touch up primer and matching automotive touch up paint. DO NOT mix paint types. Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty works well to fill surface ridges. I have also had the Stereolithography vendor custom paint the parts. Finishing ultraviolet laser resin Stereolithography is a labor of love. I now try to get the project to cover the finishing cost. Test any paint first. We had an issue with a team member using standard Krylon primer then using Krylon for plastic we ended up with wrinkled mess. Test First on small parts. No guarantee you have to test since resins and paints vary.

Edited by rjtiedeman
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