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Don@Black Dog

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Everything posted by Don@Black Dog

  1. Using TABs in a text box is leaving rectangles where the tab was used. Why?
  2. What would be really nice would be able to CTL/M, enter the desired offsets, and have them automatically reconnect!(even if it has to ask you yes or no).
  3. When I import a PDF of a Word document (notes or specs)onto a Sheet Layer, the whole 8 1/2 x 11 page comes along. I would like to be able to crop it to reduce the space being taken, but cannot find a way. Any ideas? (I was hoping to import it directly to the sheet layer, rather than to a design layer, then make a viewport, etc...)
  4. While we are discussing moving walls (see other 11/14 threads in the Architect forum) it would be very useful to have the walls automatically reconnect when using Ctl/M (assuming the project preferences are set to automatically connect walls).
  5. Actually, it isn't that hard, just more involved. Make a roof object for the whole roof. Draw rectangles where you want the dormers and clip them from the roof object Draw rectangles for the new dormer roofs (if a shed)and AEC/Roof Face for the new dormer roof. Adjust the height and pitch till it fits your roof. It helps if the walls are drawn in by this point (to locate the dormer). The section of wall at the dormers should be cut from the rest of the walls. Send to wish list that a more complicated dormer tool would be helpful, especially since the roof plane does not have the details of a Roof object (soffit, eaves, etc. Don't know why... Place the windows in the walls and Fit Walls to Roof. Any other suggestions?
  6. I have been trying to do this for a while, but it seems the dormer tool is designed for a simple dormer with a single window centered. Anything more complex and you have to build the dormer with a Roof Face, with walls below, extended to the roof face, then the window object put into the wall. It would be very nice to be able to specify a dormer in more complexity.
  7. The shutters in the window PIO's default to 1/2 the window opening. This is OK except when you make a custom unit, say a double 3' (6' total) unit, it means they are 3' wide. We need to be able to specify their widths. It would be handy to be able to also have a left/right/both/none choice as well.
  8. Um, never mind. It resolved itself. Seems someone left the "use wall depth" box unchecked....
  9. Perhaps a drum circle to initiate him, and pass the knowledge down. I'll get my bandana...
  10. How can I place windows in an attic gable wall? The wall was built as a 3" high wall (the plate) which the roof rests on, then fit to the underside of the roof. No matter how I place them, they do not show through in Open GL. I could fit the 2nd floor wall to the roof instead, but that creates other issues in the fial drawings. Thanks.
  11. click on the Wall tool, then up top, click the double arrow to the left of "Wall Style" menu box. The list will come up along with a graphic for the one you highlight. Ext is exterior, Int is interior, conc is concrete (poured), CMU is concrete masonry unit, and so on.Or, add them to your Resource Browser from the Libraries and scroll down to see the selections.
  12. I would agree, a light washof the class color would help, when just doing a quick fly-over.
  13. It would be helpful to be able to specify the height and separation of shelves in the utility cabinets and others. Useful for custom situations like mudrooms with open faces. Thickness, too.
  14. Very cool. Now if we could only raise the bottom of the pickets to land on the bottom rail...
  15. The $180 is only some hours work, which you probably already spent trying to figure out a work around in the existing program. Trouble is, NNA will by the program and incorporate it into v.13 the day after I buy the plug-in from Ozcad!
  16. Why not just draw a rectangle on the framing layer, extrude it or use AEC/Floor for depth (so it will be solid in Open GL) and give it a Z coordinate? It can have it's own class or even layer oif you want to keep it out of certain drawings, but this lets you have a beam and see it too. Drawing custom end treatments is still an issue. Also, there is a Framing Member tool in the Detailing tool set.
  17. Look at the railing tool in the Furn/Fixtures tool set. It takes some messing around with to understand their parameters, but may work for you.
  18. When specifying the vertical and horizontal muntins on a window, the transom picks up the same parameters as the sash below. This is silly where there are 2 horizontals in an 8" transom glass area. I wish there were separate controls for the transom in a window pio: # Horiz, # vertical, align with sash below or not, different sash thickness (transoms are not always built to the same sizes as sashes). Thanks!
  19. I am using the Marvin Plug-ins, and have some suggestions: The model number should show up in the Object Info pallette. You should be able to replace the symbol or PIO from the OIP, without having to delete and reinstall. When choosing the window from the Resource pallette, it should open the setting box automatically so object parameters, trim, etc, can be set first. Good start though!
  20. Items 1 and 2 are excellent suggestions. I do a lot of renovations and work on very old buildings and stairs re never perfect. Also, allowing an offset would allow for changes in floor thicknesses. I haven't had much issue with item 3.
  21. This method (3d poly) has also been suggested in the past for texturing the outside face of the floor slabs in models, either for coninuity of image or for a special effect, watertable, color band, etc.
  22. You mean Create Section Viewport for an elevation, then adjust that crop and rename the viewport? That worked when I tried it.
  23. I would like to use the elevation images from my window PIO's for a window schedule. Is there a way to grab that image?
  24. One note: if you are building a model in any complexity, such as joists, rafters, plates, etc that you want to see, that will show upo in the sections.
  25. Draw the poly, and got to AEC/Floor. Give it a bottom Z (ie, the bottom of the slab), and then its thickness. On a regular floor these may be the same, but in a deck or patio or other floor, you can drop the bottom Z say, 12" then use a thickness of 10 or 11" for the deck so that the surface is below the house floor level. This is also good for recessed floor areas such as baths where another floor layer like a wood mat is going to go. I also use it to make window seats.
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