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3D Model of 1960s Microphone


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I have an (almost vintage) 1960s microphone, but its housing broke with a previous owner and it currently has a modern (gunmetal coloured) housing rather than its original white. Over the years I have tried, but failed to get a replacement.

 

Could someone lend a hand as to the best method to model it please? I am hoping to create an STL file and chuck it through a 3D printer. It may not be perfect, but it will have more than a hint of originality.

 

So far I have started a sequence of cross sections at 20mm intervals (mainly) and the images are a trial with Terrain and AEC. That might work, but so far gives me distinct "skins" that should be solid inbetween! I thought that Loft Surface may be the tool - but possibly not!?!

 

Is there an easy method or do I have to do it long handed with extrudes and meshes?

 

Many thanks.

MD421-01.jpg

MD421-02.jpg

MD421-03.jpg

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Quick thoughts. If the thickness is basically uniform, you could loft just the outside (or inside) and the Shell the resulting NURBS to get a solid.

 

Or Loft the outside and the inside separately, create end caps and convert to solids and then subtract solids.

 

You will often need to use a number of steps to generate this kind of object.

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Thanks Pat, that's just the ticket...

 

Outer shell created with Loft Surface and when I have time, multiple solid subtractions to finish it off.

 

It's a Sennheiser MD421-N microphone - works particularly beautifully on snare drum even though it is a dynamic mic! [Drummers tend to hit expensive condenser mics anyway]

Screenshot 2021-01-06 112126.jpg

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Solid subtractions often fail when the solid parts overlap in a complicated way. This can be very small parts, often overseen unless you zoom very close. You can try to add the solids instead of subtract and you may find intersecting edges and lines in places where you do not expect them. That is where you have to edit the geometry. If you have more than one solid to subtract you can also try to subtract one by one.

 

b.t.w.: Worked with this microphone when I started my business around 1985.... Seems  I'm getting old ... 😉

Edited by halfcoupler
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  • 3 months later...

Nearly there, having tried various methods. Most of it uses the loft tool.

 

I do have a problem with the area around where the mic clip goes, as it protrudes beyond the housing. I did prepare the perfect Sweep to tidy it up, but that was the point at which it wouldn't do any more solid subtractions! Bugger!

 

image.thumb.png.eef435a7fc531ad391605aadcf9825b7.pngimage.thumb.png.54215ca53b1d4e716b42a98d1f8e2f1d.png

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