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Wall texture (T-111 siding) cover edge of Floor


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To make a nice Render of your model (using T-111 plywood siding 8" oc groove), Whats the best way to cover the sides of the floor with the same texture as the Wall?

I Tried converting a floor object into a mesh,but the mapping is a mess.

I also extracted a surface, better mapping, but you have to fool with the Horiz. alignment to get the grooves to line up. Is there a better way?

Wish list- to make a wall component extend beyond the wall edges by a user defined amount.

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No perfect solution but there are a couple adequate workarounds:

1) Trim the floor object so that it is fully inside of the walls, then either make your lower walls taller by the floor system thickness or make your upper s walls taller then move them doen by an equal amount.

2) When it's part of the scheme anyway, a belly band (usually the floor itself or a simple extrude) will hide this flaw.


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Thanx for the reply,

I thought of making the walls taller and lower, but then you have to mess with all of the door and window hieghts?

I've used the belly band thing, but then the contractor is adding these things when you don't really want them.

I do like the idea of making a duplicate set of walls, make them short as the floor, and I guess you'd have to shrink the floor so it would'nt show thru.I'll have to try that as well.

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Making the lower walls taller, as suggested by Peter, does not affect the door and window heights. Their elevation is relative to the wall base.

Another option where walls are stacked is to use one wall for all stories. This works but does have some drawbacks and kind of defeats layering.

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If you are attempting to build your model to represent real field conditions than changing the model to perform a "look" will give you the wrong section cuts.

I build my floors, walls, ceilings and roofs exactly as they would appear in real time. I have made my wall styles to represent the actual materials applied than wrap the floor deck perimieter with the siding, brick or surface material as a wall style the thickness of the floor. Works great and gives me the right live section detail.

Pete A

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Pete, I have a question or three: how do you apply sheathing to a two (or more) story building so that it is continuous, as it would be in the field? How do you deal with the specific issue presented here, that is, a typical frame structure with stacked walls and floors? How do you make the siding texture continuous?

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Pete A,

What you said is what I'm trying to do. But Wrapping a floor so that the sides show the siding has'nt worked for me.

How do you do it so the pattern lines up with the walls?

PS I'm only talking about a single story with a raised Floor.

If you can do that with a single object as the Floor, I'd like to see that.

I'm thinking that the idea of making 'little walls',at the floor depth,they could be duplicates of the main ones, will be the answer, along with shrinking the floor a bit so it does'nt show.

Thanks All of you, for the ideas

It does seem lousy that one would be forced into using a belly band at every floor juncture.

Also,(new subject) In other cad prgms, Their hidden Line Render has a draw intersections feature, sorely missing in VW.

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I know this site is going down here soon so I will see if I can spend a little time to get together some pics to show explaning what I do. It is very simeple and works very well in merging the surfaces for elevations. Sometimes there is the need to adjust textures to align surfaces but that is rare and only in cases where it is seen.

More to come...

Pete A

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Ok...here is my 2 cents.

Here is the way I do my walls in order to accomplish three things.

1.) Get the model as close to field accurate as possible.

2.) Add objects that will make section details accurate and less time consuming.

3.) Produce a visual model that can also calculate materials.

I will start by showing my wall styles library which I bring over from my favorites library for each project one at a time as I build the model. This keeps me from dragging to many styles around.


The styles used for this exercise are?BLOCK 12?, ?BLOCK 8?, ?FILLER BRICK?, ?FILLER BRICK LG?, and ?FRAME 2X4 EXT?.

The foundation is constructed just as it would be in the field with 12? block under 8? block to form the brick veneer ledge as pictured below in the foundation plan.


I used three wall styles to make the composite wall structure with the 12? block (?BLOCK 12?) at 12 courses with 2 courses of 8? block (?BLOCK 8?) above exposing a 4? brick ledge to support the brick veneer (?FILLER BRICK LG?) that must be set out a minimum of 1? to all a drain cavity between the framing and masonry veneer. This space must also extend into the foundation where weep holes or moisture wicks are installed to the veneer.

Next you would create the floor deck above the foundation as shown below


In this view you have only the objects that make up the floor deck and the brick veneer band (?FILLER BRICK?) around the floor deck. The 1? space is very easy to achieve as each element of this plan falls directly above the foundation so I grey with snap the foundation and trace over with these objects.

Notice the absence of a dashed line in the ?FILLER BRICK? as I only want to see that line on my foundations which relays to the mason that the veneer is corbelled out over the 12? block below.

The next step is to install the first floor wall on its appropriate level with ?FRAME 2X4 EXT? wall style using the left edge and trace either the foundation or floor deck below for accuracy. (See picture below)


NOTE: I have found that at times you must zoom in really tight to your snap points as you begin to accumulate many walls especially when you get to the upper levels. For this reason I hold off with any interior walls until the exterior is complete.

Here are the steps shown in 3D?


Foundation with brick to grade band installed.


Floor deck with brick band installed.


First floor walls

Here is a picture of the walls stacked with the grey levels to show a 3D visual.


Larger images are here

Click link Foundation

Click link Deck

Click link First Floor Walls

Here is a picture with the finished render


Notice the brick veneer band is slightly off in the vertical direction?this will need to be adjusted.



I will usually only do these adjustments to the walls affected in a high res rendering.

Notice also how the section detail will cut correctly leaving me with only adding lines to show the air space to the framed 2 x 4 wall on the first floor. It will be nice when VW gives us component wall styles so we can create walls with multiple components that will have adjustable ?Z? heights to make a situation like this a thing of the past when you can project wall components in the ?Z? direction.

I hope this explanation does not bring more confusion.

This document is available in PDF at Clink link Stacking Walls in VW

Pete A.

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Using a exterior surface (wall style) to insert a band around a second floor deck is what I do all the time which is the same technique I use on the first floor deck. That band will blend with the walls above and below if it is in the same vertical plane. So allmost all of my wally sytles will have the stud cavity, sheathing cavity and siding cavity. It's the siding cavity that will is carried around the deck with a wall style just the size of the siding cavity. I think that is represents a more realistic detail when a section is cut.

What is cheating is the way the wall styles do not allow for multiple manipulation of individual cavities. Now that would solve this whole issue.

Pete A

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Hi Pete, thanks for the explanation. So just to clarify, in simple terms what you're doing for standard 2 x 6 frm'g is to draw a 6" thick wall which includes the 1/2" sheathing? Then your floor (or slab) is 1/2" smaller in each dimension, just like real life? This makes sense, however one of the walls (either the one above or the one below) will still need to be taller (or taller and moved down) which gives incorrect section cuts... I wish there was a way to apply a "surface" to the interior and/or the exterior face of wall in the same plane. This would be ideal ;-)

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